Recently, I travelled over a thousand miles to visit Taiwan for the first time, and to view and pay homage to the relics of the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa, Rigpe Dorje. As I wrote about here, from 1st to 3rd November, HE Dzogchen Ponlop Rinpoche and HE Dilyak Rinpoche (with Nalandabodhi) hosted a Dharma teaching event, on the 16th Karmapa’s Guru Yoga practice with an exhibit of some of the 16th Karmapa’s precious relics. The 17th Karmapa also gave a fascinating livestream speech, see transcript here.
Although I was present online for the teachings and practice, and had been planning to go to another Dharma event in the opposite direction, I felt such a strong urge to go and see the relics, that I changed my plans at the last minute and travelled several hundred miles (in one day) to be there for the final event for the actual 43rd Parinirvana event, to be held at the new Dharma centre in Taichung, Namkha Osel Ling. Below is my report of the new centre, the exhibit of the relics and the event itself, as well as some travelogue tips on visiting Taiwan!
In terms of other research, transcripts and translations on this website about the 16th Karmapa, I have translated the outline of the contents of his three volume Collected Works (transmission record and compositions), and compiled a Collected Works of all his teachings, translations and transcripts that are available in English or other languages. For those and more, see here.
Music? Song of Prediction by 16th Karmapa, Ala Thala Thala read by Traleg Rinpoche, and I’m Gonna Be (500 Miles) by The Proclaimers and Black is the Colour of my True Love’s Hair by Nina Simone.
May seeing these precious relics bring about inspiration and devotion in all beings, and be of benefit to attaining the fully awakened state!
Namkha Osel Ling: A contemporary, stunning Karma Kagyu Dharma centre in Taiwan
On 24th October 2024, a new Karma Kagyu Dharma centre in Taichung, Taiwan was opened by the Nalandabodhi founder, HE Dzogchen Ponlop Rinpoche and HE 2nd Dilyak Rinpoche. In attendance was also Drupon Dechen Rinpoche (who re-surfaced after the sudden cancellation of Kagyu Monlam Thailand!) .
The design/architecture of the new centre is stunning indeed, and very contemporary and relaxing to look at and be around. I do not know who the architect was though. When I arrived at the new Dharma centre, it was evening and a lovely cool breeze was in the air, much milder and less humid weather than in Thailand for sure. I had seen photos of the new building and so knew what it looked like, but it really was very beautiful from the outside. With a sleek, box like form. Surrounding it were rock sculpture like seats, and running waterfall areas. The building had three levels a ground floor room which leads out to a small outside area, with stone seats to sit on.
There is a high speed rail (HSR) train from the capital city Taipei to Taichung which is very easy to get and takes about one hour, at the affordable price of around 500 Taiwanese dollars (around 8 GBP/10 USD for an unreserved seat). I arrived in the afternoon, but other than the swish new MRT line, one has to get around via public bus or taxi.
The name Namkha Osel means ‘luminous-clear space”, and also happens to be the name of the 1st Dzogchen Ponlop Rinpoche, a 17th Century Tibetan Buddhist master, who was the throne-holder of Dzogchen Monastery in Tibet. His spiritual master was the First Dzogchen Drubwang, Pema Rigdzin, and he spent many years in intensive retreat in secluded caves undergoing many hardships, after which he took the name Namkha Osel meaning “Luminous-clear Space”; he is said to have gained the ability to know the level of attainment of others and to control the elements of his body. He passed into nirvana in 1726, the fire-horse year of the twelfth sexagenary cycle. His heart, tongue, and eyeballs were said to have been found intact in the ashes of his cremation along with other relics. He was succeeded on the throne of Dzogchen by Second Dzogchen Rinpoche. The design is far removed from that of Dzogchen Monastery though!
The current Dzogchen Ponlop Rinpoche said of the new centre:
“This new center is a place intended for all sentient beings, and for the benefit of all sentient beings – a place for compassion to arise again and again in many forms….This temple, Namkha Ösal, is an opportunity for us to follow the example of Avalokiteśvara, who in Tibetan is known as Chenrezig, the embodiment of compassion. Like Avalokiteśvara and His Holiness the 17th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, who is a manifestation of Avalokiteśvara, we aspire to cultivate the same level of compassion they have shown. This means having equal compassion for all sentient beings, without a single being left out. This is the enlightened intention of all the buddhas, bodhisattvas, and root gurus. As we emulate Avalokiteśvara in our practice, let this dharma center, Namkha Ösal, be a place that welcomes and benefits all sentient beings.”
The second floor level is the shrine, and the third floor level is for the Rinpoche/teachers’ residence. I went up to the second floor on arrival as that was where the relics were being exhibited.
The relics of the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa, Rigpe Dorje and the 43rd Parinirvana Anniversary event
Here are some photos I took (several people were taking photos when I got there). I immediately prostrated to the relics, and started to look at them and read the Tibetan labels in front of them. Honestly, I did not feel as emotional as I had when I saw and touched the paintings of the 10th Karmapa, but I was happy and overjoyed to see them. In particular, the tooth relic seemed to have a lot of energy blessing in it. More on the tooth later!
There was a also a stunning thangka of the 16th Karmapa, with White Tara in the corner. For more on the 16th Karmapa (and other Karmapas) and Tara, see here.
The 43rd Parinirvana Ritual: “give him the tooth relic” and the 16th Karmapa’s handwritten prophecy letter
The 43rd Parinirvana anniversary recitations then began (in Chinese) so I sat and meditated silently and did many mantras. Both Rinpoches were present. When the Guru Yoga started, and Karmapa Khyenno was being chanted, I felt the strong presence of Vajravarahi and dakinis dancing into the space, around the white Buddha statue. Then they entered into the white Buddha statue and visualisation of 16th/17th Karmapa in union with consort appeared inside the white Buddha statue. The dakinis were dancing around outside the statue and then filling up the room. Vajravarahi appeared in a life-size form in front of Dilyag Rinpoche and said (in Tibetan) “he will like this!”.
At the end of the rituals the 16th Karmapa seemed to say “Give the tooth relic to Dilyag Rinpoche, it is for him, he should keep it. “ When I mentally asked why, the response was “He will know why”. He also said that Dilyag Rinpoche was a monk who had kept the vows too [I have no idea if this is true or not].
In addition, a strong mental vision of the 16th Karmapa’s handwritten prediction letter which he gave to the 12th Tai Situ Rinpoche covered the entire thangka of the 16th Karmapa, and message of “the handwritten letter should be shown as a precious relic” was clearly stated.
Getting There: Some Travel tips, don’t bring any fruit or vegetables!
I had never been to Taiwan before, and honestly speaking it was not a place on my list of places I want to see before I die either! However, as a UK citizen I got a free 45 day visa exempt entry on arrival. I Googled Buddhist temples and history there and did not find that much. Like Singapore, although wealthy and developed, it seemed rather capitalist and materialist in general. People were generally very helpful and friendly.Nonetheless, the presence of such a stunning new Dharma centre as well as the 16th Karmapa’s new relics was a major blessing and pull to go there.
One warning to travellers who go to Taiwan though, the price of fruit and vegetables is almost double, sometimes more what it is in Thailand or other places. In addition, for the first time in all my years of travelling, the airport security take away all your fruit and vegetable snacks when you arrive. This is the only country I have ever had this happen to me, and seems to be a leftover measure still in place from the COVID lockdown. Combine that with the fact that fruit and vegetables are quite expensive there, while Coca Cola/fizzy drinks and processed foods, are cheap, one wonders what on earth is happening!