“Old is gold.”
“Like other cities of the period, Chiang Mai was built according to traditional astrological and religious principles. This meant that every aspect of the city’s layout, including walls, gates and moats, were designed to appease spirits and gods so they’d protect the city. Ceremonies and festivals dedicated to these protective spirits are still held today.”
“The weather can change in that very hour by the power of one person making prayers. There is no question that if the person who makes the prayers has realizations, such as the realization of bodhicitta, which is actually the best realization, then every single prayer has incredible power. There are stories of many bodhisattvas and great saints in the past who were able to prevent floods, change the direction of rivers, stop them altogether, and walk across them to the other side.”–Lama Zopa Rinpoche
I was saddened to read all the ‘panic-driven’ and even false social media and news reports recently about the floods in Chiang Mai Northern Thailand. Although, some of the areas around the river and downstream had been flooded and were facing some difficulties, the ancient central walled city of Chiang Mai and areas north and west of it (as any local person on the ground could attest) were untouched by the flood waters. The airport stayed open the whole time. The flood waters have all now receded though, yet reading the news and social media reports only, one would think the whole area and city went underwater though!
This latest gross public misrepresentation of the floods and the sudden (and unnecessary) ‘jump ship’ cancellation of the Kagyu Monlam there inspired me to write this article to set the facts straight so to speak, but also to give some history of the ancient walled city of Chiang Mai which remained dry within the ancient Buddhist city walls.
The Kagyu Monlam Thailand cancellation: ‘jumping ship’ flood scare and ‘scheduling conflict’ cited
On late Sunday 6th October, the Kagyu Monlam Thailand administrators suddenly announced on Facebook (not email) the cancellation of the planned second Kagyu Monlam Thailand in Chiang Mai Thailand, at which Drupon Dechen Rinpoche was supposed to preside. Their reasons were unreasonable and inaccurate:
“The 2nd Thailand Kagyu Monlam, originally scheduled to be held in Chiang Mai from October 12-16, 2024, has been postponed due to recent flooding in Chiang Mai and scheduling conflicts. The new dates are from December 30, 2024, to January 3, 2025. We look forward to your attendance on these new dates as we gather for prayers for world peace and the well-being of all sentient beings. Thank you for your understanding and support.”
Yet, there was no flooding at all in central Chiang Mai City and the place it would be held. As for “scheduling conflict”, the event was planned several months in advance so only gross incompetence, ignorance or dire personal emergency could account for that.
However, the way the cancellation was communicated by the organisers only added insult to injury. No expression of concern for those whose plans, time and money had been totally wasted by their announcement, no offer to visit and help out any flooded areas, no offer to dedicate the Monlam to those who had been affected in Northern Thailand. Just a general lack of accurate information and lack of care for those who had planned to attend. Even if there had been some floodwater in central Chiang Mai, why not continue with the Monlam event or change it to one of raising funds or helping money for those affected by them? That is what a Buddhist monlam is for, to help the community and Dharma in that area right?
Also, why has Drupon Dechen Rinpoche himself not given any personal announcement? Does anyone know where Rinpoche is even, is he at Rumtek Monastery, or is he on personal ‘secret’ all-expenses paid trips to Europe, Singapore and North America with the 17th Karmapa (far removed from the Vinaya rules for monks in monasteries)?
What I (and others) also do not understand is how these ‘tulkus’ who are considered realised beings are unable to skillfully deal with these situations? As the recently passed Lama Zopa Rinpoche taught, a realised being with great bodhicitta can help to avert or even stop ‘natural disasters’ by making a tea offering to local deities and protectors or other acts:
“Even though these kinds of problems are big, if one person with a sincere heart takes refuge one-pointedly, without any doubts, in even one buddha such as Chenrezig, Padmasambhava, or Medicine Buddha, and recites their mantras (such as the name mantra), it can change the situation completely. It can avert natural disasters and prevent war. Whatever problems there are can be made less, and even completely stopped, if someone takes strong refuge and prays to even just one buddha. The weather can change in that very hour by the power of one person making prayers. There is no question that if the person who makes the prayers has realizations, such as the realization of bodhicitta, which is actually the best realization, then every single prayer has incredible power.
There are stories of many bodhisattvas and great saints in the past who were able to prevent floods, change the direction of rivers, stop them altogether, and walk across them to the other side. There is one story of Lama Kälsang Jamyang Mönlam, who had bodhicitta realizations. When Tashi Lhunpo monastery was in danger of being flooded, he wrote on a stone, “If it is true that I have bodhicitta, then the water should turn back.” After writing this on the stone, the river actually turned backward. There are many stories about the power of bodhicitta, showing how it can control and affect the elements.”
In any case, the Monlam cancellation was a ‘disaster’ it seems of incompetence and ignorance by people who frankly don’t have the time, or even ability to further the Karma Kagyu activities there (see below about the questionable conduct of two of the ‘organisers’.). It also cost a lot of people time and money.
Anyway, it is not really the case that people are not trying to help the 17th Karmapa get a base for his Dharma activities in SE Asia at all, it seems more that the people around him, and those organizing events do not seem to be particularly ‘bright’ and active on his behalf. Or are there other ‘unseen forces’ at work here from within the Karma Kagyu and Tibetan Buddhist lineages too? “Where there’s a will there’s a way” as we say. Here there clearly was not the will (or the wisdom).
Two of the Kagyu Monlam Thailand Chinese organisers and highly questionable non-Buddhist conduct
Sadly, this Kagyu Monlam administrative ‘disaster’ does not surprise me. One of the local organisers, whom I met when I was there previously, include a Chinese woman, M, (who does not read or speak a word of Tibetan or Thai, and has never even met the 17th Karmapa or been to India) who has a full-time job as an administrator at a private school (mainly for rich Chinese) in Chiang Mai. The other is a Tibetan Khenpo, who both live together in a big house on the outskirts of central Chiang Mai, and do not seem to have done anything (due to lack of time or will/energy?) to further the situation of Karmapa/Karma Kagyu in that area at all, or organize any Dharma events etc.
When I first met M last year, she was very sweet and kind, and we shared common views on things, particularly about the Gelug sectarianism. I told her about my being a survivor of lama misconduct and she told me she had informed the Khenpo there who said he was shocked to hear about it.
One day, M drove and showed me a huge piece of land in the hills that had been gifted a couple of years ago to the 17th Karmapa by the Chiang Mai Buddhist university to build a centre/monastery there with a stunning view of the mountains. It seemed like a perfect place to have a centre and also retreat huts. M expressed her frustration that the people around the 17th Karmapa did not seem to be doing much at all to further the land and project along and they could not gather any followers or funding for their small centre there. I asked her what the current Khenpo was doing and where he was, and she did not know even know.
Later, when another new Khenpo arrived there from Tibet (who apparently is connected to Sangye Nyenpa (the lama accused of serious sexual misconduct and of privately undermining the 17th Karmapa for years), I realised things were not OK with these people. M told me that they had arranged a ‘life release ceremony of fish’ but she suggested I did not go because they were going to a restaurant afterwards where they would eat meat (slaughtered animals). I told her that was totally sad and ridiculous and made the whole ‘life-release ceremony’ seem like some sick and pointless joke. Needless to say, my opinion did not ‘go down well’ and I did not attend. It reminded me of how often these ‘Buddhist life-release practices’ are actually not engaging with the real purpose of the practice or transforming their minds and habits by it.
A few days later, M arranged for me to meet and have dinner with them both and the new Khenpo turned up (at evening time in a restaurant) in shorts and vest top, showing lots of bare flesh. Even though the temperature was warm, neither I or M were dressed like that, and it was inappropriate dress for an evening meal even for a layperson, never mind someone who is a monk/Khenpo and supposed to be representing a Dharma centre and tradition! When I queried his dress and if he was a monk or not, he started aggressively defending himself and shouting at me. He then stormed out the restaurant and she followed him, without saying goodbye. M has refused to communicate with or respond to me ever since, even about the Kagyu Monlam arrangements. Hardly inspiring or honest Buddhist conduct or community, is it? More like a sulking passive-aggressive child. And then they wonder why they cannot progress the land project or get followers?
When I invited M on a few occasions to meet me in the old town where I was staying (which she kindly did), she told me she very rarely ventured into the ‘old town’ and preferred staying and living in the built up commercial mall/business areas on the east. Perhaps that was the reason she/they had no idea that the ‘heart’ of Chiang Mai had not been flooded at all?
This ignorant and non-Buddhist attitude to life-release of animals and its purpose, but also their ignoring the 17th Karmapa’s advice himself who has advised and encouraged his followers many times not to eat slaughtered animals as being non-Buddhist, unnecessary, damaging to the planet and natural resources and unhealthy. So these people clearly did not seem to care or even know about what their ‘teacher’ was teaching and saw as important.
For more on 17th Karmapa’s teaching on eating animals and Buddhism. see here.
The ancient four gated walls of Chiang Mai and why the floods never touched it
On a more positive note, I have lived for several months on and off in Chiang Mai this year and last, and written a few pilgrimage articles about their stunning temples and sights there (see here and here and here). For a Buddhist, and even for a digital nomad/traveller if one can bear the humid heat, it is a ‘heavenly’ place indeed with all the benefits of a ‘city’ too. Because it is so historic and so beautifully surrounded by the lush, lower-lying areas of the great Himalayan Mountain chain, it is a welcome, peaceful attraction to Buddhists but also those who want to escape the big city bustle of cities like Bangkok.
Flooding in the region Chiang Mai has been an ‘issue’ since Chiang Mai’s inception in 1296. Chiang Mai literally means “New City” and was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. It was founded by King Mengrai because Lanna’s previous capital, Wiang Kum Kam, (now referred to as the ‘ruined city’) was repeatedly flooded and destroyed by the Ping River. Chiang Mai’s new location was strategic, as it had to be positioned close enough to the Ping River for local merchants’ trade and rice-growing communities’ access to irrigation water.The city municipality of Chiang Mai (thesaban nakhon) officially only covers parts (40,2 km²) of the Mueang Chiang Mai district in the city centre.
The historic four gated walls of Chiang Mai have all been restored from their original construction to what they are today. The walls that were built around the ‘new city’ (now called the ‘old town’), were expertly positioned for sure. It is still one of the few old cities in the world where the walls and gates play a crucial role. Chang Phuak, Chiang Mai Tapae and Partu Suan Dok, are the original north, south, east and west portals of the city, all constructed in the 13th century under the orders of King Mengrai. Like other cities of the period, Chiang Mai was built according to traditional astrological and religious principles. This meant that every aspect of the city’s layout, including walls, gates and moats, were designed to appease spirits and gods so they’d protect the city. Ceremonies and festivals dedicated to these protective spirits are still held today. Apart from its location away from the river and flood plains, this could also be why the floods never touched it.
In fact, Chiang Mai owes its very existence to water in the shape of the steady old River Ping, which in days gone by allowed passage and trade to China, Burma, and the rest of the world. y, after more than 700 years of growth and expansion, the physical, historical and cultural uniqueness of the city is still in evidence: the moats, walls, gates, the 40 ancient temples within the city walls, and hundreds more outside, together with the marketplaces, and the different communities of diverse ethnic groups and cultures.
However, the city’s rapid urbanization has exacerbated its flooding issues. The city’s expansion beyond its original site exposes it to the Ping River’s overflow, the rampant use of concrete reduces absorption of rainwater, new housing typologies have shifted away from the stilted houses that were designed to mitigate the impacts of floods, and deforestation increases forest runoff from the adjacent Doi Suthep. These factors result in flooding throughout the city, especially during rainy season (May to October) each year.
In addition, there is a lot of eating slaughtered animals in Chiang Mai, despite the fact that it is a Buddhist city and country. Although there are some excellent vegan/vegetarian restaurants, the vast majority of places all serve meat. Yet, Buddha specifically taught people not to voluntarily buy and eat animals, and environmentalists have been warning us all for decades about the catastrophic effects of mass animal agriculture for meat on the environment and planet’s resources.
Yet that 700 year-old square of walled land of Chiang Mai city central remains protected and dry. So, the cancellation of the Kagyu Monlam sent the wrong message not only to the local people there, but also regarding Buddhist practice too. In English we have a saying, “do not kick a person when they are already down.’ By cancelling the Monlam, the hasty ‘jump ship’ organisers without offering any help and support either, sent another blow to the local people there, and to those who had planned to attend it. Showing both a lack of wisdom and compassion.
There were similar constant last minute cancellations of the online teachings of the 17th Karmapa this year too. Frankly, it would be good if the organisers had a little bit more concern for the time, money and expense people who plan to go to these events are losing as a result.
Insiders to the Kagyu Monlam adminstration say that the organising committee seem to be using the event as a way to travel round the world on all-expenses paid trips, without much benefit to the Dharma communities there. Although I do not know if this is true, certainly this hasty and unnecessary decision does not give a good impression of their priorities at all. I wrote two emails to the committee, since their announced cancellation to try and inform them that the floods had not touched Chiang Mai city, but there was zero response (as is the norm it seems).
So, in conclusion, I sincerely ask people to ignore these exaggerated, scaremongering, cowardly reports and cancellations based on false information about floods (much like the similar panic of many Buddhist lamas encouraging everyone to wear masks and get injected with toxic, untested injections that did not work and were never needed) and to please go and visit Chiang Mai in person, you will not be disappointed. The people, temples, nature and mountains are beautiful indeed. I share some previous photos I published of my time there:
For more on of my research and photos on Chiang Mai and its temples and sights: