THE EMERALD BUDDHA AND BUDDHA’S RELICS IN BANGKOK: The Reclining Buddha, Wat Arun and the Emerald Buddha and Wat Saket

“This third nirvana is called the “final nirvana of the relics.” Until that time, the relics of the Buddha are to be regarded as his living presence, infused with all of his marvellous qualities. The relics of the Buddha are, essentially, the Buddha.”

From the 9th -11th February 2024 (New Year’s Eve and Day in Losar and China), which is also the beginning of the fifteen days of Buddha’s miracles culminating in Chotrul Duchen, I was not only able to celebrate the Chinese New Year in Chinatown, Bangkok (see photo reel here), but also had the great fortune and merit to pay pilgrimage visits to some of the most stunning, precious and sacred Buddhist pilgrimage statues and sites in Bangkok city: the Reclining Buddha and the Emerald Buddha and two sites where the Buddha’s relics are housed: Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) and the Golden Mount (Wat Saket).

Aside from the stunning temples and historical interest of these temples, visiting and paying homage and practising in front of the Buddha’s relics is considered to be one of the most meritorious things to do as a Buddhist practitioner and pilgrim. The reason for this is, according to Buddhist belief, there will come a time in the future when the teachings of Shakyamuni Buddha will disappear from the world and the relics will no longer be honoured. At that time, it is said the relics enshrined in stupas around the world will break out of their reliquaries and magically return to Bodh Gaya, where they will assemble into the resplendent body of the Buddha, seated in the lotus posture under the Bodhi tree, emitting rays of light that illuminate 10,000 worlds. The gods will worship them one last time and they will ignite into flame and disappear into the sky. This third nirvana is called the “final nirvana of the relics.” Until that time, the relics of the Buddha are to be regarded as his living presence, infused with all of his marvellous qualities.  The relics of the Buddha are, essentially, the Buddha [1]. For a transcript of a teaching that the 17th Karmapa recently gave about the Buddha’s passing away and his relics in general, as well as the remarkable ones excavated in India during the 19th Century, see here.  For my visit to the relics in New Delhi, India, see here.

Getting to the main pilgrimage sites in central Bangkok is easy and pleasant when going by the boat ferries that stop off at the main piers along the Chao Phraya river that runs through the city. One single stop is 30 Baht (70p). I would highly recommend the electric boat, Smile Boats, not only for lovely service but for being the only environmentally friendly one too. The boat even plays a film to people while waiting about the disastrous effects of climate change on the planet.

In this post, I share some photos  (I took on my now vintage mobile phone, ha ha) and some information about the sacred places and objects. Bangkok is an extremely hot and humid, crowded, polluted and busy capital city, and with huge amounts of animal and female flesh being sold daily for selfish consumption, completely against the Buddha’s teachings, it can feel like the epitome of human consumption, desire, greed and excess. These precious Buddhist sites also were very touristy and crowded and not many Buddhist practitioners or pilgrims there it seemed for the most part. 

Yet, despite all that hustle, bustle and consumption, these golden statues, relics and their remarkable history, also speak of something more, something golden, good and genuinely precious that money could never buy and ordinary sensual pleasure could never replicate.   One thing is for certain, whether one is Buddhist or not, or believes in these prophecies, the Buddha’s relics are a divine and priceless jewel in the crown of Buddhist historical, cultural and spiritual heritage.  They represent the Buddha Nature in us all. So, while gazing up at the ancient Emerald Buddha, I felt that innate nature reflecting back to me in a way words or photos could never ever describe adequately, simply ‘wow’. 

Music? Om Muni Muni Maha Muniye Svaha mantra, Wow by Kate Bush and Gold by Spandau Ballet.

Written and compiled by Adele Tomlin, 15th February 2024.

Wat Pho and the 46 metre long reclining Buddha

The reclining Buddha is a must-see for any Buddhist pilgrim (or tourist) to Bangkok. As one of the largest temple complexes in the city, it’s famed for its giant reclining Buddha that is 46 metres long, covered in gold leaf. 15 metres tall, 46 metres long, Buddha’s feet are 5 metres long and exquisitely decorated in mother-of-pearl illustrations of auspicious laksanas (characteristics) of the Buddha (see photo). 

The wat and the reclining Buddha (Phra Buddhasaiyas, Thai: พระพุทธไสยาสน์) were built by Rama III in 1832. The image of the reclining Buddha represents the entry of Buddha into Parinirvana and the posture is referred to as sihasaiyas, the posture of a sleeping or reclining lion.   The figure has a brick core, which was modelled and shaped with plaster, then gilded. The right arm of the Buddha supports the head with tight curls, which rests on two box-pillows encrusted with glass mosaics. The soles of the feet of the Buddha are 3 m high and 4.5 m long, and inlaid with mother-of-pearl. They are each divided into 108 arranged panels, displaying the auspicious symbols by which Buddha can be identified, such as flowers, dancers, white elephants, tigers, and altar accessories. At the center of each foot is a circle representing a chakra or ‘energy point’.

The number 108 is significant, referring to the 108 positive actions and symbols that helped lead Buddha to perfection.  One can also purchase a bowl of coins at the entrance of the hall which you can drop in the 108 bronze bowls which line the length of the walls. Dropping the small pennies in makes a nice ringing sound and even if your wishes don’t come true, the money goes towards helping the monks renovate and preserve Wat Pho.   The name refers to the monastery of the Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, India. The date of the construction of the old temple and its founder are unknown, but it is thought to have been built or expanded during the reign of King Phetracha (1688–1703). The southern section of Wat Pho used to be occupied by part of a French Star fort that was demolished by King Phetracha after the 1688 Siege of Bangkok.

After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767 to the Burmese, King Taksin moved the capital to Thonburi where he located his palace beside Wat Arun on the opposite side of the Chao Phraya River from Wat Pho. The proximity of Wat Pho to this royal palace elevated it to the status of a wat luang (‘royal monastery’)

The temple is first on the list of six temples in Thailand classed as the highest grade of the first-class royal temples. It is associated with King Rama I who rebuilt the temple complex on an earlier temple site. It became his main temple and is where some of his ashes are enshrined. The temple was later expanded and extensively renovated by Rama III. The temple complex houses the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand and the marble illustrations and inscriptions placed in the temple for public instructions has been recognised by UNESCO in its Memory of the World Programme.

Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) and the Buddha’s relics

The Temple of Dawn has over 300 years of history. This ancient temple had existed since the period of Ayutthaya Kingdom (or the 17th century). Its original name was “Wat Makok”. It is said that King Taksin the Great intended to establish a new capital of Thonburi. He travelled along the Chao Phraya River and arrived in front of Wat Makok just as dawn was breaking, The temple was then called “Wat Chaeng”, meaning “Temple of Dawn”. A major restoration of the spire (prang) took place during the reign of king Rama II (early 19th century). The name of the temple was change to “Wat Arun Ratchatharam” and had become the temple of his reign. In the reign of King Rama IV, the temple was renamed “Wat Arun Ratchawararam” as the present name.

The spire or “Prang” of Wat Arun, is where Buddha’s relics are placed. Its architecture is remarkably outstanding and is considered one of the greatest and most beautiful stupas of Rattanakosin Kingdom. The architectural components of the Prang reflects Buddhist ideology about the universe according to Traibhum cosmology. For more on the profound Buddhist symbolism and architecture of the temple and complex, see here.

The Emerald Buddha and the Grand Royal Palace

The highlight of the pilgrimage visits was seeing, and being able to practice in front, of the ancient Emerald Buddha (Thai: พระแก้วมรกต Phra Kaeo Morakot) , which an image of the meditating Gautama Buddha seated in a meditative posture, made of a semi-precious green stone (jasper rather than emerald or jade), clothed in gold  and about 66 centimetres (26 in) tall. The image is considered the one of the most sacred of Thailand. It is housed in the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew) on the grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok  No photos were allowed inside the temple, but someone very kindly took one of me inside it while they stood outside (see photo).

The legend of the Emerald Buddha is related in number of sources such as Jinakalamali, Amarakatabuddharupanidana, and in particular Ratanabimbavamsa or The Chronicle of the Emerald Buddha written in Pali by Brahmarājaprajña in the 15th century (but the oldest extant manuscript dates only to 1788). The story is a mix of fact and fables with some variations to the story. According to the legend, the Emerald Buddha was created in 43 BCE by a sage named Nagasena in the city of Pataliputra (today’s Patna), India. Nagasena allegedly had the help of the deities, Vishnu and Indra, 500 years after Buddha attained Nirvana. He was said to have predicted:

“This figure of the Buddha is assuredly going to give to religion the most brilliant importance in five lands, that is in Lankadvipa (Sri Lanka), Ramalakka, Dvaravati, Chieng Mai and Lan Chang (Laos).”

For more on the history and origins of the Emerald Buddha statue, see here.

When I arrived there around 10.30am it was jam-packed with tourist groups. It also cost 500 Thai Baht (15 USD) to enter, so obviously a money-earner too.  I was ‘man-handled’ a bit by a security man eager to see if I had my shoulders covered (I did) and I noticed women being sent back (by male ‘guards’) to the main gate to cover up bare shoulders, yet men were walking in with T-shirts and shorts no problem (grrrr).  There is a strict dress code for women but no so much for men’s bare flesh it seemed. Yet in the same city they have whole areas dedicated solely to men buying women’s bodies like meat for sexual pleasure (sigh).

In any case, there were few Buddhist pilgrims there it seemed as most people were quickly taking photos and then moving on. Packed full with mainly tourists,. I squirmed my way to the front where there was space to sit with Thai people who had come to make offerings and aspirations. I had an unobstructed view of the emerald coloured Buddha, flanked on both sides by stunning statues. Inside the temple, were exquisite paintings.

Below are some photographs I took at the  Emerald Buddha temple. There were many very grand and exquisite doors and outer facades with golden half animal, half human protectors dotted around the complex and two main ‘protectors the main gate..

I went to the Grand Palace afterwards (which is next to the Emerald Buddha temple), which was also exquisitely opulent and beautiful from the outside, but people were not allowed to enter, and there did not seem to be anything particularly Buddhist about it.

Today, the place is used for hosting royal ceremonies and welcoming the king’s guests, State guests, and other foreign dignitaries. It is also a place where remains of kings and high-ranked members of the royal family were situated before cremation. The grand palace is divided into two main zones, which are the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the royal residence.

Wat Saket – the Golden Mount and Buddha’s relics

My final pilgrimage stop was at Wat Saket (the Golden Mount) a temple on a hill, where the Buddha’s relics are housed. This Landmark, on the only hill in Bangkok, is of great significance for all Buddhists.  320 stairs take you up to the top for panoramic views of the Rattanakosin Island.

 It is an ancient temple of the Ayutthaya period, which is a first-class royal temple of the Ratchawora Maha Wihan class. Originally, it was known as Wat Sakae then later the whole temple was re-established in the reign of King Rama I the Great and given the new name of Wat Saket.   The Golden Mount chedi began to be built during the reign of King Rama IV the Great. The King used the model from the Golden Mount of the Ayutthaya period, and construction was completed during the reign of King Rama V the Great. It was bestowed the name Suwanbanphot and is 77 metres tall. On the top of Suwanbanphot is the chedi/stupa that enshrines the Buddha’s relics received from India, which were dug from the hill of the old chedi in Kapilavastu. Every year, during the Loi Krathong Festival of Lights, there will be a seven-day and seven-night celebration, which has become a tradition to worship the Buddha’s relics continued to the present time.

One can get a tugtug or taxi to the gate and walk up some steps (not difficult and takes about ten minutes). Here are some scenes from the walk up and some of the Buddha statues:

While there, as well as making offerings, circumambulating, chanting mantras and aspirations and doing prostrations, I also participated in a Buddhist ritual where wooden sticks with numbers on in a cup is shaken until one falls out. One then reads the number and gets a message for that number. My numbered message was a most positive and auspicious one indeed, and so I have shared a photo of it here:

In addition, as I (and others, a mix of tourists and pilgrims) watched the sun go down on the temple rooftop,  I saw the sun turn into a diamond shape with an orb and then with a red fire like circle around it. A cloud formation appeared as well, in the shape of a dragon. I took these as very auspicious signs indeed!

 

 

Endnotes

[1] In the Nandimitravadana translated by Chinese scholar-master, Xuanzang it is said that the Buddha’s relics will be brought to parinirvana by sixteen great arhats and enshrined in a great stupa. That stupa will then be worshipped until it sinks into the earth down to the golden wheel underlying the universe. The relics are not destroyed by fire in this version but placed in a final reliquary deep within the earth, perhaps to appear again.