My next pilgrimage trip in Vietnam was to Da Lat from Saigon. It is the capital of Lâm Đồng Province and the largest city of the Central Highlands region in Vietnam. The city is located 1,500 m (4,900 ft) above sea level on the Langbian Plateau. I had never been here before but someone I met travelling recommended it to me for the nature, mountains, lakes and I noticed there were several Buddhist temples there too. It is also known for its mild weather (much less humid than Saigon or Thailand), breathtaking scenery, and charming atmosphere.
When I arrived there (as a UK citizen I get 45 days visa-free stay), I immediately checked into a small hotel in the French Quarter, near the central lake. I could see mountains all around, and the skies were blue and sunny. This was very different to a few weeks before when parts of Vietnam had been ravaged by a typhoon.
This article is about two of the main Buddhist temples I visited in Dalat, Bamboo Forest (Truc Lam) and Linh Phuoc monastery, and the huge Golden Buddha statue (Thien Van Hanh temple), with photos and personal observations. The cable car trip to the Bamboo Forest Zen Buddhist monastery was one of the most spectacular in terms of natural scenery I have ever had the fortune to travel on. I also managed to move to another hotel near the lake that had one of the most breathtaking views of the mountains and sunrise (with clouds surrounding the mountain peaks) I have ever stayed at, only to be marred in the evenings by a nearby cafe/place playing extremely loud dance/techno music all evening untill 11pm! Such is samsara I suppose ha ha ha.
Traffic was also less hectic there too and the whole place was surrounded by hills and mountains everywhere you looked, with much milder yet still warm temperatures but no so humid. The city itself was full of fruit and flower sellers, craft chocolate, amazing cafes everywhere, lots of strawberries and mangos as well as several vegetarian restaurants, my favourites being Vegan Heaven and Amelie Patisserie.
Highlights of Da Lat were the gorgeous, massive female Bodhisattva statues at Linh Phuoc Pagoda, including a huge one made entirely of 600 000 flowers, and the cable car ride to the peaceful, serene Zen Buddhist monastery in the forest overlooking the lake, Truc Lam (Bamboo Forest).
I finished the short Da Lat stay with a quick trip on the toy vintage train and a visit to the “old train station”, fun and worldly but not really part of the Buddhist pilgrimage!
Music? The Great Bell Chant read by Ven. Thich Naht Hanh, and for the masses of female Bodhisattva statues, There Must an Angel Playing with my Heart by the Eurythmics.
Enjoy the beauty and blessings in the clouds!
Getting There and the central lake of Da Lat, City of Eternal Spring
Getting to Da Lat is easy from main cities like Ho Chih Minh of Hanoi. There are regular buses and flights, although no direct train station. As one arrives, one notices the hills and mountains all around the area, and feels closer to the nature. Mist covering the valleys almost year-round leads to its name “City of Eternal Spring”. Residents and tourists have said that Da Lat has all four seasons in one day: spring in the morning, summer at noon, autumn in the afternoon and winter at night, from the sunset to the sunrise.
According to some sources, the name is derived from the acronym of the Latin phrase ‘Dat Aliis Laetitiam Aliis Temperiem’ (“It Gives Pleasure to Some, Freshness to Others”), which the French colonial government used in their official emblem of Da Lat. Others say the name Đà Lạt is derived from the language of the local ethnic group Lạt and its original meaning is “Stream of the Lạt”, and the above acronym is in fact a backcronym. Đà Lạt or Đạ Lạch got its name from Koho daa (“water”) + Laac (the indigenous people of Da Lat).
Here are some photos I took from the balcony of a hotel I found, which was suprisingly not that expensive, with amazing sunrise and “clouds below the hills” views.
Day and Night Scenes around Dalat
Walking around Dalat Lake and the city centre was a joy. Many flower and fruit sellers, a French cathedral, mini Eiffel Tower, unusual UFO type architecture, many excellent bakeries selling fresh baguettes, croissants, coffee, and mountains all around. Here is a selection of photos I took day and night. Like a heavenly mix of Vietnamese French culture, cuisine and more.
One cannot go up the mini Eiffel Tower, and it is a lot smaller than the actual one in Paris, which I have visited a few times! It is an interesting city landmark though.
Cable Car to Robin Hill and the Truc Lam Monastery
First Buddhist temple stop in Dalat was via the cable car (150 000 VND return) from Robin Hill to the Truc Lam Monastery. The cable cars were built by an Austrian company. The ride covers 2,3km, with 50 brightly painted individual cabins spanning the distance. When I arrived there, there were hardly many tourists at all, and so I had a cable car all to myself! It was a blissful experience indeed. The weather and skies were clear and blue. The trip takes about 20 minutes and is quiet with wonderful views of Da Lat. The car itself glides over the tops of the trees sometimes just touching the top branches.
It is also possible to go by road and climb the 222 steps through a triple-arched gate to the main hall.
“Bamboo Forest” (Truc Lam) Vietnamese Zen Buddhist Monastery
Truc Lam Zen Monastery in Dalat is known for its stunning views of Tuyen Lam Lake, beautiful architecture, and peaceful atmosphere. The monastery is located on the top of Phuong Hoang Mountain. The temple had one of the most peaceful and serene environs I had visited. The flower gardens, trees and views of the lakes and Da Lat below were great spots to gaze and meditate. It is a peaceful getaway for those who are under stress or sorrow or want to meditate and be in natural beauty.
Its location near Tuyen Lam Lake was chosen following a dream of Thich Thanh Tu in 1986, who considered Dalat as a perfect place thanks to its pleasant climate, poetic nature, and serene atmosphere. The name “Truc Lam” means “Bamboo Forest”. The Pagoda was initiated by the Vietnamese government in an effort to restore and promote the teachings of Zen Buddhism and Truc Lam Yen Tu Zen School, Truc Lam Zen Monastery was built from 1993 to 1994 by Zen Master Thich Thanh Tu. This pagoda has harmoniously combined different Zen schools in the world with Vietnamese culture into Vietnamese Zen.
Photos were not allowed in the main temple but inside the 192-square-meter hall stands the 2-meter-tall statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, along with two Bodhisattva statues. within the temple grounds were weeping curved roofs, intricate wooden carvings, and many different statues. At Truc Lam Zen Monastery, there are retreat courses for anyone who wants to practice meditation. I did not have time to register for such a course, but when I return there I may try to do so.
On the way back by cable car, one arrives again at the lovely flower gardens of Robin Hill cafe, although disappointingly for the coffee lovers, it does not serve freshly ground coffee from an espresso machine, so no chance to enjoy the view with a tasty coffee. Unless you don’t mind black coffee served with Vietnamese condensed sweet milk.
The recycled mosaic Linh Phuoc Pagoda (made of discarded rubbish) and huge statues of female Bodhisattva made from flowers and hundreds of female Bodhisattvas
The next Buddhist pilgrimage stop in Da Lat, Vietnam was the renowned Linh Phuoc Pagoda, about 8 kilometers away from the center of Dalat City to the northeast. One can get there by car, about fifteen minutes from the centre, or by the small vintage toy train, more on that later!
The Pagoda is also renowned for its unique architecture, which began in 1949 and finished in 1952. In 1990, the abbot of the pagoda decided to renovate it on a larger scale, using pieces of glass, pottery, and porcelain to create a unique architectural design. Since then, the pagoda has gained popularity thanks to its attractive appearance.which features the creative use of discarded materials. During its renovation, the pagoda incorporated various recycled items such as porcelain, glass, beer bottles, and pesticide containers. The monks and local Buddhists spent years collecting broken bowls discarded by a beer factory. Seeing their efforts, the factory began to gather and sell these materials directly to the pagoda, with the local residents also contributing by collecting broken bottles and dishes.
The 33 m long and 12-metre wide main hall features 2 rows of cobblestone mosaics. On top of it are many mosaic bas-reliefs featuring the history of Shakyamuni and the histories of the Lotus Sutras. The temple grounds (Hoa Long Vien) have a dragon of length 49 m, the dragon enclosure is made of 12,000 beer bottles, and the dragon mouth covers the Maitreya Buddha.
In front of the temple grounds is a 37 m high seven-storeyed pagoda tower, which is considered the highest temple bell tower in Vietnam. One can walk up to the top of it. In the heart of the Dai Hong Chung tower is a 4.3 m high bell that is considered the heaviest bell in Vietnam; it is 2.33 m wide, weighs 8,500 kg, and was cast in 1999. In front of the temple is Quan The Am (the female Bodhisattva of compassion).
Linh Phuoc Pagoda holds the most records in Vietnam (11), including:
- The pagoda adorned with the most porcelain pieces
- The tallest bell tower in Vietnam, with a height of 36 meters
- The statue of a female Bodhisattva made from 600,000 flowers, with a height of 18 meters
- The biggest golden oak statue of Khong Tuoc Vuong in Vietnam
- The tallest indoor Buddha statue in Vietnam, with a height of 17 meters
- The largest sutra set in Vietnam
- The biggest set of golden oak tables and chairs in Vietnam
- The tallest wooden statue of Bodhidharma in Vietnam
- The longest 18 levels of hell in Vietnam, with a length of 300 meters
- The artwork of “Song Tung Bach Hac” in Vietnam
- The largest golden oak couch in Vietnam
As one goes up the pagoda stairs, there are several levels with different Buddha statues:
The female Bodhisattva temple and huge statue made of 600 000 flowers
One of the most stunning places within the Pagoda complex was the temple with a huge female Bodhisattva of compassion statues, surrounded by hundreds of female Bodhisattvas.
Huge Golden Buddha statue (Thien Van Hanh)
The next pilgrimage stop in Dalat was to see the huge Golden Buddha statue (Thien Van Hanh temple), around 10 minutes drive north of the central city and lake. The huge 80 feet tall golden statue of the Buddha sits on a small hill and dominates the landscape here, it can be seen gleaming from below. Seated in the traditional lotus position, it is also known as the Amithabha Buddha, which means “boundless light.” Here are some photos I took, and the surrounding buildings and grounds. There were a few tourists (entrance is free) and some Vietnamese people were making offerings and prayers.
Temple of the Female Bodhisattva (Chua Quan The Am)
Another temple I visited right in the centre of Da Lat next to the lake, was a lovely small place with a female Bodhisattva statue in the grounds, and a Buddha statue in the main temple. Not very touristy or busy at all but a serene and central place to make offerings and aspirations.
Toy Vintage Train and French colonial old train station
Dalat Train Station once served as a gateway to the captivating city of Dalat. It now stands as a testament to Vietnam’s colonial past and enduring heritage. Dalat Train Station is not only an architectural masterpiece of Dalat City, it also holds a special place in the history of Vietnam’s railway industry. The station was designed by two French architects, Moncet and Revéron, and built between 1932 and 1938. Dalat Train Station was a part of the Thap Cham – Dalat railway line, connecting Dalat with Phan Rang.
In 1972, this railway line was destroyed during the war. After the country’s reunification in 1975, ththe line was restored but only for a short period due to poor economic viability. Eventually, the Dalat Train Station was abandoned. Currently, the station is no longer part of Vietnam’s national railway system, but it still remains a popular tourist attraction. There is an antique steam locomotive and a café housed in a carriage.
The station has a similar architecture to the old railway stations in France, featuring an arched roof structure. In front of the station, there are three pointed triangular roofs symbolizing the three mountain peaks of Langbiang, accompanied by a clock marking the moment when Dr. Yersin discovered Dalat. In 2001, the Ministry of Culture, Information, and Tourism recognized Dalat Train Station as a national architectural relic.
