Indo-Thai collaboration on Buddha’s skullbone relics trip to Thailand re-affirms and strengthens spiritual and political shared interests and friendship (February-March 2024)

“Mahākāśyapa let out a long sigh, said a few verses, and circumambulated the pyre seven times. After Mahākāśyapa had seen the Buddha’s remains the pyre self-ignited. They had tried to ignite the remains several times but had been unable to do so. Now, the remains naturally ignited themselves.”

“This third nirvana is called the “final nirvana of the relics.” Until that time, the relics of the Buddha are to be regarded as his living presence, infused with all of his marvellous qualities.  The relics of the Buddha are, essentially, the Buddha.”

From 22^nd February until 19^th March 2024,  the Indian and Thai government arranged a historic trip  of the Buddha’s relics from the National Museum, New Delhi (which I have had the fortune to visit twice in India, see here) to four sacred sites in Thailand.  One of the main architects of the event was Niraj Kumar, the Joint Secretary of the Indian Ministry of Culture and leading Kālacakra scholar and translator, whom I have recently interviewed about his work on Kālacakra here.

The organization and exhibition of the relics included a grand welcoming ceremony with the Thai King and Thai Prime Minister attending the enshrining ceremony with Indian government officials in Bangkok.  The holy relics in Thailand were also part of the celebrations for the 6^th Cycle or 72^nd Birthday of the Thai King Maha Vajiralongkorn.

As can be seen from this overview article and photos below, and in previous articles I have written about the Buddha’s relics and how he passed into nirvana (based on recent teachings by the 17^th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Dorje) the Buddha’s relics still inspire devotion and respect among millions of people in Thailand and worldwide. My own trip to the tooth relic in Kandy and the Mahiyanganaya hair relic temple, Sri Lanka and other sacred relics sites in SE Asia has been inspiring indeed.  Despite attempts by religious and political groups to destroy and erase Buddhism and Buddhist statues, heritage and legacy in India and other countries (in the past and present, as was tragically seen with the Taliban destruction of the ancient 6th Century Bamiyan Buddha figures carved in the rock), the continued presence of those with devotion for Buddha and his teachings and symbols of that, continue on.

So, this relics trip marks not only a spiritual event for Buddhists in both countries in terms of the relics, but in making and strengthening common interests and friendship between those from original land of Gautama Buddha and Buddhism, India and centuries-old Buddhist country and culture of Thailand. May be this a sign of greater friendship and harmony not only with India and the ‘Indo-China region’ but also in the future, with Buddhist China too. The Buddha’s relics acting like a sacred, golden bridge of trust, friendship and shared joy and devotion.

Music? Buddhist Thai monks chanting Dhammacakka Sutta (the first teaching Buddha gave after his full awakening and Most Powerful Theravada Pali chanting by Bande Iratana.

Planning and organisation: advance trip in Thailand

An advance team from the Ministry of Culture  led by Mr. Niraj Kumar visited the proposed sites in Thailand from 21-27 December. During this visit, Indian team  engaged in discussions with the respective authorities of  both governments and finalized the itinerary and venues for the exposition of the sacred relics.   As I was staying in Chiang Mai, Thailand at the same time, I was kindly invited by Niraj Kumar, a fellow Dharma scholar and friend, to attend a flower festival and dinner with Indian and Thai organisers of the event.

Arrival of the relics in Sanam Luang Bangkok, Thailand: military aircraft and grand welcoming ceremony

On the 22nd February, a 22-member delegation led by the Governor of Bihar Shri Rajendra Vishwanath Arlekar and Union Minister of Social Justice and Empowerment of India Dr. Virendra Kumar arrived in Bangkok on 22 February by a special Indian Airforce aircraft. The remaining team members comprised of Niraj Kumar, and Indian Culture Ministry officials, curators, monks, scholars, artists.   The timeline for the exposition was:

• 22 February-3 March, 2024, in Bangkok (11days)
• 4-8 March 2024, in Chiang Mai Province (5 days)
• 9-13 March 2024, in Ubon Ratchathani Province (5 days)
• 14-18 March, 2024 in Krabi Province (5 days)
• 19 March 2024, escorting the Holy Relics  back to Delhi from Krabi

Photos of the relics at these locations are below:

On 23^rd February evening, the sacred relics were handed over to the Thai Prime Minister for temporarily enshrining in Sanam Luang pavilion, Bangkok after a long and elaborate parade. Sanam Luang or the royal field is at the heart of old Rattanakosin city where Bangkok started. It was originally used for royal cremations, hence the name Thung Pra Meru (Royal Cremation Ground), until the reign of King Rama III when the king decreed that all cremations be held outside the old city walls. 

Hor Kham Luang, Royal Rujapruek, Chiang Mai: 4th March

On 4^th March 2024, the relics were then taken to Hor Kham Luang, Chiang Mai, northern Thailand, by special Thai military aircraft.

For more on Chiang Mai, and my pilgrimage visit and stay there last year, see here.

Wat Maha Wanaram, Ubon

On 9 March 2024, the relics were flown from Chiang Mai by Thai Airforce special aircraft to  Wat Maha Wanaram, Ubon Ratchathani. Established in 1807 by Ubon’s second ruler, the temple is regarded as the principal wat in Ubon, containing one of the province’s most sacred Buddha images. 

Wat MahaThat at Aoulek, Krabi

On 14th March, the relics were then flown to Wat Mahathat, Krabi on the south-west coast of Thailand to be exhibited at the Maha That Wachiramongkol , Krabi.  It is around 70 kilometers away from Krabi town. Its highlight is its large golden chedi, the Phra Mahathat Chedi, inspired by the Maha Chedi Phutthakhaya, in Gaya, India.  In 2002 the Phra Mahathat Chedi was constructed for the 50th birthday of the then Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn (now Thai King Rama X).  The golden Chedi stands at 95 meters and is the tallest pagoda in southern Thailand.  In 2006 King Rama X gave the temple the new name of Mahathat Vachiiramongkhon. Mahathat means relic. The main Buddha statue was named Phra Buddha Thaksin Chai Mongkhon.

Return to India from Krabi on 18th March

On 18th March 2024, Phra Khru Silakunsamothan, Deputy Abbot of Wat Thatthong. Krabi presented the golden casket for the holy relics of Lord Buddha to Dr. B. R. Mani, Director General of National Museum, New Delhi to return back to India by special Indian Air Force plane.

Over four million visitors in two weeks

The relics were visited by masses of people and inspired much devotion and inspiration. It was reported that 4 million people visited and venerated the triple relics of Buddha , Sariputta and Maha Mogallana.