After the blissful and meaningful times during August attending the teachings of HE 9th Gyalton Rinpoche (sadly marred by unethical and discriminatory actions of a few white (and predominantly female!) European administrators/volunteers there), I decided to leave Europe to go to “fresher pastures” and to China again (travelling alone as always!).
This visit was to attend an international academic conference from 5th-6th September on History and Culture along the Plateau Silk Road that had been organised by Sichuan University, Chengdu, and Tibet University, Lhasa and the Dargye Art Museum (a private art collection) in Chengdu.
Amy Heller, a leading Tibetan Buddhist art historian and researcher, had kindly informed me she would be speaking at the conference and was welcome to attend. As I had been wanting to visit Chengdu for a while, I decided it was an opportune moment.
When I arrived there, I was also kindly invited by the organisers to attend a prestigious invite-only art exhibition organised by the Dargye Museum in Chengdu, and be accommodated in an exclusive 5 star hotel, with travel and food paid for by the organisers, the Longjiu company who had converted one of their factories into an exhibition space, about six hours drive south from Chengdu. Unfortunately, due to lack of time and personal reasons I had to decline their kind invite. Here is my brief report on one of the presentations about the 10th Karmapa’s stunning artwork of his protector, Rangjung Gyalmo.
Below is a report on some of the places I visited in Chengdu, such as the Tibetan area in the city, meeting and speaking with some Tibetans I randomly met in restaurants, and having a look round the Tibetan shops nearby, and the Wuhou temple nearby. As well as some lovely river sights in the evening at the famous bridge .
Finally, I share some sights and scenes from the ancient stunning Buddhist temple, Wenshu Monastery with a Manjushri Shrine and statue and thousand Buddha pagoda. It is a monastery which dates back to the Tang dynasty, and is Chengdu’s largest and best-preserved Buddhist temple. Originally known as Xinxiang Temple, it was renamed after a Buddhist monk who lived there in the late 17 th century.
People were polite, kind, friendly and welcoming on the whole and I came across a small group of Tibetans doing the kora dance in the evenings, see video reel above. I felt reasonably safe there, even as a lone, white female alone and experienced zero street harassment by any men, something which is sadly quite common in other countries I have visited in Asia. I did not see any other foreigners while I was there though, despite China’s recent giving one month visa free entry to many European nations (not the UK though sadly for me). Like Taiwan, it did not seem to be a place that was visited by white Europeans, or North Americans at all. Unlike Taiwan though, people did not stare continually in such a public and obvious way at all. So even though I “stuck out like a sore thumb” as we say, I did not feel uncomfortable or a target for harassment by strangers at all. When I approached people for help or to strike up a conversation, they were generally friendly and helpful.
I have made three short reels for people to watch, visiting one of the many teahouses in Chengdu, Tibetan quarter sights and sounds, and Tibetans doing kora dancing in the evening.
One cannot really experience a place, people or culture without being there in person. Although words, photos and videos help to get some of that “energy” across, it really is no substitute for being there. However, I hope this report and photos get some of that “energy” across.
Interestingly, one of the most memorable visual experiences I had there was seeing the photos of Karma Kagyu and Nyingma masters, such as the 17th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, 12th Tai Situpa, Khenpo Jigme Phuntsog in shops, next to the Chinese communist party leaders. And of course, none of the 14th Dalai Lama anywhere. In particular, this stunning cardboard cut-out image of the famous Nyingma and Dzogchen master, Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok Rinpoche who was one of the main teachers and founders of Larung Gar in Tibet. When I saw the image it literally took my breath away and seemed to be telling me something deep and timeless symbolically beyond words about Tibet and Tibetan Buddhism.
Music? Chengdu by Zhao Lei, Wangdu: The Great Cloud of Blessings chanted by Khenpo Jigme Phuntsog Rinpoche, and short biographical film about Khenpo Jigme Phuntsog,
Chengdu: An ancient city of Tibetan and Chinese culture and temples
Although I had been to China last year, in Lijiang, Yunnan visiting pilgrimage places of the Karma Kagyu monasteries there and 10th Karmapa and 8th Tai Situpa. Chengdu is the capital city of the Chinese province of Sichuan. With a population of over 20 million people (!), it is the fourth most populous city in China. It is traditionally the hub of Western China. The surrounding Chengdu Plain is known as the “Country of Heaven” and the “Land of Abundance”. Its prehistoric settlers included the Sanxingdui culture. The site of Dujiangyan, an ancient irrigation system, is designated as a World Heritage Site. The Jin River flows through the city.
Founded by the Kingdom of Shu in the 4th century BC, Chengdu is unique as the only Chinese settlement that has maintained its name unchanged throughout the imperial, republican, and communist eras for more than two thousand years.
Personally speaking, Chengdu was different from Lijiang and did not seem as aesthetically beautiful, or did not resonate as much for some reason. The weather was humid and cloudy, grey skies, patchy showers with occasional sunny bursts. However, Chengdu is a gateway to some very important eastern Tibetan regions, such as Derge, outside the Tibetan Autonomous region (TAR), where only a Chinese visa is needed to visit.
The city: warm, welcoming smiles, sounds and flowers in the Tibetan quarter next to Wouhou Temple
It was warm and humid when I arrived in Chengdu completely alone, as happened last time I visited China, I had some issues paying for things with my card or online, getting a SIM card and so on. So I had to manage with cash and use the international roaming on the SIM card I already had. Also I could not login to Wechat while I was there , and so was unable to use that, which is an essential app in China for many things.
I did not see any foreigners there the whole time I was there. Like Taiwan, it did not seem to be a place that was visited by white Europeans, or North Americans at all. Although I was white, blonde woman alone (and thus stood out like a sore thumb, as we say), I felt remarkably safe though, and unlike Taiwan, people did not continually stare at me or make me feel uncomfortable in such a public and obvious way at all.
The first night before the academic conference at the University of Sichuan, I had booked into a hotel a short walk away from the Tibetan quarter of Chengdu, in the Wouhou temple area. I had this overpowering thought after I checked into the hotel that “I must go and see the Tibetans here!” And after some of the unkind (even cruel) “rejection” bullying, and hostility in Europe I had to endure alone, the environment and people around me there felt like a breath of fresh air, even though the skies were generally cloudy and grey for most of the time!
As I walked to the Tibetan quarter past the Wuhou Temple, I remember seeing the Tibetan script above the restaurants and being suddenly overcome with tears of joy and sadness. I had not been around Tibetan communities since I left India a couple of years ago. So it was delightful to see and hear Tibetans in the streets and Vajrayana and Tibetan Buddhist Dharma objects being sold in almost all the shops. Joy arose at the stunning blooming trees of dusky pink rose type flowers everywhere. Brightening up the overall “grey” of the buildings and skies and the natural beauty of it gave hope and freshness. There were many Tibetan restaurants too, although not very full (quite empty in fact, even during dinner peak time).
I saw a young monk chanting Twenty-One Taras sitting on the street with a bag for donations, and stopped to give him money, chat to him and thank him, see video (which he agreed to let me take of him) below:
In the shops and restaurants there were many photos of Karma Kagyu and Nyingma teachers, such as 12th Tai Situpa and 17th Karmapa, on the same shelves as photos of the Chinese leaders. Interesting combination.None of the 14th Dalai Lama or Panchen Lama . Gelugpas do not have much a following historically and even now in former Kham, Tibet.
I noticed there was a visible presence of Chinese police vans stationed on the two “ends” of the main street, although perhaps it is like that in other areas too, I do not know. Overall, people seemed free to go and do as they pleased. Although of course, appearances can be deceptive, but it did not seem an oppressive place or atmosphere.
People were friendly and welcoming on the whole and I came across a small group of Tibetans doing the kora dance in the evenings, see video reel above.
I started speaking to Tibetans there who all looked very happy to speak in Tibetan to me, and came across a monk chanting 21 Taras in the street, Tibetans dancing the circle, and Tibetan restaurant where I met someone from the area I wanted to go to, Derge, and offered to help me get there by car. It was such a difference from the “hostile” white European administrators, and my heartbreak at having people actively try to break my new vajra samaya connection with Gyalton Rinpoche, that I felt like crying and smiling at the same time. A change of scene and environment can be self-care for the soul! It was great to be able to purchase incense and Dharma ritual objects at reasonable prices too.
The Tibetan area itself was quite small, and there were police vans on every street corner of it, unlike other places. However, it seemed to be peaceful and thriving area (externally) and Tibetans there seemed reasonably happy.
Wuhou temple
The main temple next to the Tibetan area is called the Wuhou temple. It is located in the southwestern part of downtown Chengdu. The date of its establishment is unclear. It was built next to the Temple of Liu Bei. Consequently, the entrance plaque reads “Zhaolie Temple of Shuhan Kingdom”. Zhaolie is the posthumous title of Liu Bei. The current Wuhou Temple was rebuilt in 1672. Stepping in, you can admire the Ming Tablet composed in 1547 AD and the precious Tang Tablet that is also called “three consummations tablet”, because it is famous for superb composition, calligraphy and carving.
The Chengdu river scenes at night near the Anshun Bridge
One of the things I love to do when I travel somewhere is to go to the river for the sunset and evening lights. In Chengdu the Jinjiang river runs through it and a famous bridge called the Anshun. Here are some photos I took of the evening lights there.
As I walked along the riverside, I came across a lovely small coffee shop there too, run by a Chinese man in his 30s (who spoke a little English) and who played the Beatles and lots of British indie rock. It was like being home and it was the best cappuccino I had there too. We communicated with google translate and “pigeon English” and it was a lovely evening indeed. Some of his Chinese friends popped into to join the conversation. Strangers from different countries and languages connecting over coffee, music, shared interests and outlooks.
The Wenshu Temple (文殊院; Wénshū Yuàn: ‘Temple of Manjushri’)
Another Buddhist temple I visited a couple of times before I left Chengdu, is north of the Tibetan area and river called the Wenshu temple (文殊院; Wénshū Yuàn: ‘Temple of Manjushri’).
According to Chengdu County Annals, a disastrous fire consumed the temple at the end of the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), only ten iron statues of Buddhist deities and two thousand-year-old China firs survived. Then, in 1681, in the reign of Kangxi Emperor of the Qing dynasty (1644–1911), master Cidu (慈笃) came to the site and built a thatched cottage. At that time, the temple was renamed “Wenshu Temple”, which is still in use now. Renovations and rebuilding to the buildings began in 1697 and were completed in 1706.
A finger bone relic of the Sakyamuni Buddha is enshrined in the temple, from Bodh Gaya, India. A parietal bone relic of Xuanzang is also preserved in the temple. The Wenshu (Manjusri) Monastery was built in the Southern Dynasty and rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty. Its main buildings include the Hall of Lokapala, the Hall of Three Bodhisattvas, Daxiongbaodian (Precious Hall of Sakyamuni), Shuofatang (The Buddhist Lecture Hall), and the Scriptures Hall. The skull of Xuanzang, a monk of the Tang Dynasty still kept in the Monastery is most precious. They are said to have been enshrined in Wenshu Monastery in 1965. During the Cultural Revolution, Master Kuanlin, the previous abbot of Wenshu Monastery, wrapped the relics around his waist all day to protect it during all the persecution, that’s how the relics are kept intact.
The temple area has two stunning Manjushri statues and a beautiful thousand Buddha pagoda people circumambulate and make offerings to. The temple area is also surrounded by Tibetan mala and jewellery shops, I bought a new turquoise mala there, and many cafes, teahouses, including one in particular, that I made a reel about here. I was invited to the tea tasting ceremony there.
I offered incense and lights, and asked the Manjushri statue if I should go all the way back too Belgium, and the answer came back a resounding “Yes”, and that “life is short and so decisions should not be based on personal safety or concerns only and to do what my heart was telling me to do.”
Here are some photos I took (on my simple mobile phone) of the main temples and a teahouse I visited which is in the temple area outside full of cafes and restaurants.
Manjushri hall and statue and Ten Thousand Buddhas
In one of the main halls of the Wenshu monastery, is the Manjushri Hall/statue. When I arrived there, it was almost empty, there were a few Chinese people, and a Tibetan man and his wife and child sitting in front of the statue.
As I was being mentally magnetised/pulled strongly to return to 9th Gyalton Rinpoche’s teachings in Belgium (after being deliberately prevented from attending them in France) including a Manjushri empowerment, I prostrated, circumambulated and made some mental and flower offerings, and asked the statue for guidance.
The statue/inner wisdom whispered in response” that “Life was too short for making decisions based on personal safety and no risk only. The heart will tell you where to go, so listen to it.”
Hall of the Three Great Bodhisattvas
Thousand-Buddha pagoda
Near the entrance to the Wenshu Temple is the tallest iron pagoda in China, the Peace Pagoda of a Thousand Buddhas. It has 11 storeys with a height of 22 meters, and decorated with a small yellow bell hung on each of the six upturned corner eaves of every storey. There is a small platform in front of it to make offerings and prostrations and people circumambulate it reciting mantras and aspirations.
