“The sins of a life time are all rendered null, once Kelaniya is worshiped, a single time.” –Mahāvaṃsa text
“The Mahāvaṃsa records that the original Stupa at Kelaniya enshrined a gem-studded throne on which the Buddha sat and preached. “
Sri Lanka is renowned in the Buddhist world as one of the most sacred Buddhist countries in the world not only because Buddhism spread there from India, but also because the Buddha himself visited Sri Lanka at least three times, it is said. These visits all seemed to be to quell major disputes on the small island country. As a result of the influence of Buddha in Sri Lanka, there are sixteen places in Sri Lanka (Solosmasthana) that are considered very sacred. During my pilgrimage visit, I was able to visit several of these sites.
My first stop was Kelaniya, about 40 minutes/10 km drive from the capital city of Colombo Fort, which is known for the Buddhist temple built on the banks of the Kelani River. Among the many Buddhist temples of Sri Lanka, the Kelani Viharaya stands out as one of the most exquisite examples of sculptor’s art. Its history runs back to more than 2500 years. This was the third place Buddha was said to have visited in his life knowing that the Lanka would be the only country where his religion would be most glorified, he is said to have visited Sri Lanka three times.
I took a local rickshaw alone to the Kelaniya Vihara temple and arrived there about an hour before sunset. Unlike all the Buddhist temples I had previously visited in Thailand, particularly in Bangkok, there was not a tourist or foreigner in sight. I was the only one and it was also uncrowded. There was no hefty entrance fee to pay either.
In the main temple were stunning Buddha statues, including a sublimely beautiful reclining Buddha, wall art murals, ornate doors, golden stupa of Buddha’s relics and more. A devout pilgrim could easily have spent hours here absorbing all the blessings and energy and beauty of the place.
The second sacred place I visited after Kelinaya, before I left the Colombo area, was an old temple called Gangaramaya, which also housed a small golden stupa of the Buddha’s relics and some stunning statues and works of art. Located in the busy capital, Colombo itself and next to the Beira Lake, this temple complex is a popular tourist attraction, a sacred place of worship and a learning and vocational training centre.
In this article, I share some information about Kelaniya and the Buddha’s visit there, my own observations/experience and photos, which I took on my old mobile phone camera (which I dropped and smashed while inside, which forced me to get a new one!). I have not brightened the light of the photos too much, to keep the atmosphere and colours inside the temple as natural as possible.
In sum, Kelaniya was not a grand, plush, expensive or crowded tourist attraction. Pilgrims and local devotees had to walk around the grounds in bare feet on earthy ground, but that lack of ‘development’ gave it more spiritual energy, beauty, charm and authenticity. As I walked around the temple, statues and trees, there was a deep sense of the Buddha’s presence and energy in the earth, trees and hills and in the sincere and moving devotion and reverence of the white-clothed pilgrims and devotees offering flowers, water and aspirations. Those ‘unseen’ blessings of visiting pilgrimage places being the most sacred and treasured of all.
The third place Buddha visited in Sri Lanka: Kelaniya
The Shakyamuni Buddha is said to have made his third visit to Kelaniya on the personal invitation extended to him by Maniakkhika, the ‘naga’ king of Kelaniya. These trips are mentioned in the Mahāvaṃsa (Mahāvaṃsa)) is the meticulously kept historical chronicle of Sri Lanka until the period of Mahasena of Anuradhapura. It was written in the style of an epic poem written in the Pali language It relates the history of Sri Lanka from its legendary beginnings up to the reign of Mahasena of Anuradhapura covering the period between the arrival of Prince Vijaya from India in 543 BCE to his reign and later updated by different writers. It was first composed by a Buddhist monk at the Mahavihara temple in Anuradhapura in the 5th or 6th century CE.
Having spent the seventh Vas (Retreat) period in Tavtisa (in Persia) at the palace of Persian Emperor in Persepolis, King Darius, referred to as Sakka (Sakkra), the King of Devas (Persians were Aryan Devas) and eighth Vas period in Bhesakala close to Sunsumara Giri in India, the Buddha visited Sri Lanka for the third time (that was the last time, too) at the invitation of King Maniakkhika first arriving in Kelaniya, in 9 B.E. (519/520 B.C.) with 500 of his followers.
It was on this third visit that the Buddha placed an imprint of his left foot on top of Sumanakuta (Samanalakanda) on the invitation of a Naga Prince named Sumanasaman as he left his foot imprints in Narmada and Saccabaddha in India. (more on that place in another post!).
Sri Lankan Buddhists believe that the Buddha visited Kelaniya in order to quell a quarrel between the Nāga leaders of two warring factions: Chulodara (literally “the small-bellied one”) and Mahodara (literally “the big-bellied one”) who were quarrelling over a jewel-encrusted throne. After the Buddha showed them the futility of their quarrel they converted to Buddhism and together offered the throne to the Buddha. It is believed that the dagoba (stupa or Buddhist temple) was built with the throne as a relic inside.
It is said that:
“On arrival, the Buddha and the company of ‘Arhants’ were received with great ceremony and veneration. Tradition has it that the Buddha on this occasion bathed in the waters of the Kelani river at a point immediately in front of the spot where the Kelani Vihara stands today, thus making the river sacred to the people of Sri Lanka. Thereafter the Buddha and the ‘Arahants’ were conducted in procession into a decorated hall, especially erected for the occasion. There they were offered sumptuous food. After the meals, the Buddha, it is said, delivered a discourse to the king and his citizens. Later on to commemorate this event, the king is said to have built a ‘dagaba’ on that hallowed spot, and enshrined in it the gem-studded throne on which the Buddha sat and delivered the Dhamma to the ‘Nagas’. This built at Kelaniya. It was during this visit that the Buddha is also said to have visited Sr Pada and placed his footprint on its summit to be revered by the future generations of Lanka.”
Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara has also become famous because of the beautiful paintings and sculpture by Solias Mendis depicting various events in the history of Sri Lanka.
Authentic, non-touristy and stunning – my visit to Kelaniya
I took a local rickshaw to the Kelaniya Vihara temple and arrived there about an hour before sunset. Unlike all the Buddhist temples I had previously visited in Thailand, particularly in Bangkok, there was not a tourist or foreigner in sight. I was the only one and it was also uncrowded. There was no hefty entrance fee to pay either.
All visitors had to take their shoes off when walking around the outside and inside of the whole temple complex. As the area was not paved and dirt ground this took some getting used to and had to watch out for sharp objects and stones.
Ornate door to the reclining Buddha statue
Once stepping inside the main entrance of the main temple, to the right through an exceptionally stunning door frame, there was a huge reclining Buddha, whose face was one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. This statue was easy to get close to and look at and spend time near, unlike the very touristy and larger reclining Buddha in Bangkok.
Mural artworks inside the Kelaniya main temple
The artwork inside the main temple was stunning too and inside were beautiful statues and old painted wall murals as well as ornate door frames. It is said that the old paintings were done when the temple was rebuilt in the Kandyan period. They decorated the walls and ceilings of the two chambers of the old wing. In these old paintings one can clearly notice South Indian influence on Sinhala art. It felt like stepping back in time and was well-preserved too. 
The centrepiece of the temple: a Buddha Statue with a blue sky and mountain
In the heart of the Kelaniya main temple is a stunning Buddha statue with a blue sky and white snow mountain painted background. Pilgrims offer flowers and aspirations to it.
The Buddha’s relics in a golden stupa
The second main exhibit in the heart of the Kelaniya temple, in another room on the left of the two main Buddha statues, is a small golden stupa said to contain some relics of the Buddha.
The original white stupa with a Buddhist flag dressing by local pilgrims and devotees
The Mahavamsa records that the original Stupa at Kelaniya enshrined a gem-studded throne on which the Buddha sat and preached. The only original building of the temple that remains at present is the stupa. It is said to house the Buddha’s inner robe.
When the sun started to set, more Sri Lankans began to arrive, mainly dressed in white, to make offering and aspirations there. It felt very authentic and non-touristy and without pretense, not lots of people looking take to snaps for their next social media post, unlike the huge, famous temples and statues I had visited previously in Thailand.
In addition, some local devoteers began banging drums and playing traditional music outside and a group of people with them started wrapping the Buddhist flag around the white stupa next to the main temple.
The sacred Kelaniya Bodhi tree next to the main temple
There was a sacred Bodhi tree next to the main temple which pilgrims offered water to and circumambulated. I happily joined in with this ritual and circled round the tree several times making prayers and chanting mantras. The tree was huge and its branches very wide, I wondered about its age.
The Buddhist nun Sangamitta Maha Theri, a daughter of Indian Emperor Ashoka, in 236 BC, brought the tree cutting to Sri Lanka during the reign of Sinhalese King Devanampiya Tissa. At more than 2,300 years old, it is the oldest living human-planted tree in the world with a known planting date.
The Gangaramaya Temple: a not-so-hidden Buddhist gem in Colombo city
The second sacred place I visited before I left Colombo, was an old temple called Gangaramaya, which also housed a small golden stupa of the Buddha’s relics and some stunning statues and works of art. Located in the busy capital, Colombo and next to the Beira Lake, this temple complex is a popular tourist attraction, a sacred place of worship and a learning and vocational training centre.
Established over 120 years ago, this once little hermitage nestled on a piece of marshy land, has transformed into a tourist ttraction. Local and foreign devotees gather at this bustling space, revered for its embellished architecture and statues showcasing Sri Lankan, Chinese, Thai, Burmese and other artistic styles.
A spectacular work of art, the Temple is elaborately designed and surrounded by statues of Buddha, lions, nymphs and china vases. Standing like sentinels at the door, two golden Buddha statues guide the throngs to the main sanctuary of the Temple and the door is decorated in intricate wood carvings of elephants and swans.
The museum is a treasure trove of Buddha statues from all over the globe, Hindu Gods, old watches, Dutch coins and other antique collectibles. The pièce de résistance is the smallest Buddha statue on the island, encased in a glass box, whereby visitors can view it with a magnifying glass. There is no fee to enter the Gangaramaya Temple. Here is a small selection of photos I took there.
[1] The Mahavamsa first came to the attention of Western researchers around 1809 CE, when Sir Alexander Johnston, Chief Justice of the British Ceylon, sent manuscripts of it and other Sri Lankan chronicles to Europe for translation and publication. The Mahamvasa covers the early history of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, beginning with the time of Siddhartha Gautama, the founder of Buddhism. It also briefly recounts the history of Buddhism in India, from the date of the Buddha’s death to the 3rd Buddhist council where the Dharma was reviewed. Every chapter of the Mahavamsa ends by stating that it is written for the “serene joy of the pious”.
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