AT THE ‘PEAK OF VICTORY’ (TSEMO) MONASTERY WITH ONE-THOUSAND ARMED AVALOKITESHVARA: Photos and overview of Tsemo Monastery, highest monastery in Leh, Ladakh

For Dakini Day today, am happy to offer this new article on Namgyal Tsemo Monastery (gompa), a Buddhist monastery located at the highest point of Leh, Ladakh on a hilltop, located just above the Leh Palace.

The Tsemo Monastery was founded by the King of Ladakh Tashi Namgyal (who ruled from 1500-1532) circa 1530. The date given on the monastery sign says 1430, but this does not seem to make sense considering the dates of Tashi Namgyal too. It is said to have been built to commemorate his victory over the invading Turks. The summit of the hill on which it stands was named Namgyal Tsemo, the Peak of Victory. The history of the castle is closely associated with that of the Namgyal dynasty. It served as his residence when he made Leh the capital of Ladakh for the first time. It was only in the 17th century that Leh was permanently made the capital of the Kingdom of Ladakh. 

The Drukpa Kagyu monastery houses ancient manuscripts and frescoes and a three-storey high gold statue of Maitreya Buddha. Most parts of the Tsemo Fort are now ruins but it is photographers’ delight to reach here and capture some breathtaking panoramic views of the Leh town and surrounding mountain ranges.

Tsemo Castle (Fort) and Tsemo monastery is visible from all parts of Leh town. For those not keen on long uphill treks (especially in the sweltering heat of the Leh summer) fortunately, Tsemo is reachable by road, taking a short turn from Leh-Khardungla pass road. Many visitors like to climb up from Leh palace, which is 5 minutes steep uphill climb.

In this brief article, I share my photos of the trip to the monastery and the spectacular views all around (taken on an old Android mobile phone). While visiting I was unable to see the renowned Maitreya statue there, but managed to see a beautiful 1000-armed Chenrezig statue and a Kalacakra Stupa, which were both housed in one of the small temple rooms there, see photos below.  I was fortunate to stay in a stunning guesthouse in Leh that had a direct view of the Tsemo Monastery and Leh Palace below lit up at night.  

This small, ancient monastery was a highlight of my trip to Ladakh this year, the views of Leh below and the surrounding mountain ranges and peaks were heavenly and breath-taking indeed! The perfect place to meditate and to keep watch from the fort for violent invaders!

Music? Higher Ground by Stevie Wonder, Top of the World by the Carpenters, Love Lifts Us Up Where We Belong by Joe Cocker.

Written and photographed by Adele Tomlin, 11th August 2023.

Stupa and views from the approach to the monastery

 

One-thousand armed Chenrezig and Kalacakra Stupa